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CLARENDON |
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Roman Bratasiuk continues to make the most intense and concentrated red wines in Australia. He also is this country's most committed devotee to single vineyard expression. The three single vineyard Grenache releases from the 1998 vintage are all quite different to each other and provide fascinating comparisons. This is a most deceptive wine. Initially it appears delicate and fragrant, yet by the time you have finished assessing the wine it certainly has left an imprint with its power. Appearance wise there is loads of deep, dark red/purple hues with the color extending all the way to the rim. This provides a great preview to the depth of flavor to follow. Immediately the aroma is filled with perfume, amazing scents of blossoms. Most apparent are roses and lavender. This is quite unique and very appealing. The floral lifted aromas tend to overshadow the fruit and secondary characters, however they are certainly there. On the palate the floral notes are somewhat subdued by a pronounced leather and prune like mixture which is indicative of grapes picked at almost the maximum possible ripeness. The effect is quite a savoury flavor which is unusual. Typically very ripe fruit tends to produce wine that tastes sweet to the point of jammy characters dominating, however this wine has plenty of other flavors to make it complex at an extraordinary youthful age. Over the palate the wine is noticeably thick and viscous. The relatively high alcohol, 15 degrees, is quite evident with a satisfying warming sensation. The wine has been made to age for a long time. This is evident with the finish which is super powerful and dominated by chalky, gripping tannins. Put it away for 8-10 years to allow these tannins to soften and integrate. Try the wine with heavy rich braised dishes with abundant sweet pan juices. The sweetness will help counterbalance the astringency of the wine, whilst the flavor of shanks or a similar cut of meat will be matched in intensity by this concentrated, big wine. |
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