Print this Wine         1995 Elderton Command Shiraz   NURIOOTPA, BAROSSA VALLEY                 January Release   Shiraz       This wine is now firmly established as one of the great Shiraz wines Australia produces. Consistency over the last five vintages has taken the reputation of the "Command" right to the top echelon. This vintage has a lot to live up to given recent releases. I think it surpasses the most recent vintages and could well be the best wine yet released under this label. Whilst the trend has been for the classic Barossa Valley Shiraz to be picked even later and the new oak even toastier than ever, Elderton has released a wine that shows more finesse than its neighbors, without losing any of its renowned power. The appearance is deep dark inky red to purple, and this indicates as usual concentration from old vines that just don't yield much in the way of volume, but are at the top of the heap when it comes to flavor. The subtle change towards subtlety is noticeable on the bouquet which has more fresh fruit characters, avoiding some of the stewed flavors of super ripe fruit. There are plums and mulberries evident. There are also some nuances of new oak with spicy vanilla being just as obvious as the toasty, charred character. In addition the wine is already displaying the secondary characters that will develop with time in the cellar. These flavors are chocolate and coffee, along with a nutty, marzipan aroma. Whilst all the flavors on the nose can be found on the palate it really is the fruit that tends to overshadow the other components. The texture is thick and viscous. The finish sees ample gripping tannins that are slightly bitter at this stage of the wines development. The acid is quite soft. Although this wine is somewhat more fruit driven at this early stage, in comparison to previous vintages, it surely will age for a very long time. The concentration of fruit is intense and the tannins will ensure that some of this fruit is preserved for at least 10, perhaps 15 years. The advantage of the fruit dominance at this early stage is that it makes the wine quite suitable for drinking now, as long as you like your wines to be on the big side and don't worry too much about the firmness at the finish. Select a braised dish with plenty of juice to soften and sweeten the tannins. Alternatively try a soft and ripe cheese as this will also soften the aftertaste. At a later stage in the wine's development it would be better suited to roasted meats with elegant reduction sauces.

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